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St. Davids, Ont.: A blend of great food, wine and history - One Tank Trips - The Buffalo News

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Last update: 2010-08-21 04:32:28.0

St. Davids, Ont.: A blend of great food, wine and history

Published:2010-02-09 13:34:23.0

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Updated: 2010-08-21 04:32:28.0

ST. DAVIDS, Ont.—A historic house with a fascinating past, organic wines and a restaurant/ bakery owned by one of Canada’s most famous chefs proves to be a winning combination here in St. Davids, located on the southern edge of Niagara- on-the-Lake.

This quiet hamlet has always attracted visitors with its golf course and scenic orchards, but the recent opening of Ravine Vineyard and Olson Foods is sure to draw more people to this charming spot.

I’ll start with the food, since the taste of the lemon square will linger in my memory forever.

Anna Olson, along with her husband, Michael, a professor chef at the Niagara Culinary Institute, are owners of Olson Foods, a homestyle restaurant filled with delectable edibles. It’s not surprising that the quality of food here is so high, given that Anna is the popular host of two television programs on the Food Network.

Her current show, “Fresh,” showcases local seasonal products from the Niagara Region and is filmed not far from here in her kitchen. Her previous show, “Sugar,” appeals to sweet-toothed fans from around the world with heavenly desserts.

In both shows, Olson is known for transforming simple food with gourmet flourishes and attention to detail. She brings this philosophy to the restaurant. “What we do here,” she says, “is very much what we do at home.”

In fact, the restaurant feels very much like a country home. Exposed beams, an eclectic mix of furniture and a deli counter create a casual atmosphere. Diners can eat in, take their goodies home or, in the summer, sit out on the welcoming porch and enjoy the view of the vineyard.

The menu is filled with reasonably priced items that highlight fresh local ingredients and reflect Olson’s signature style. Artisan breads such as the red currant and walnut loaf are baked daily in a wood oven. Their grilled sandwiches, featuring cheeses from Prince Edward County, served with flavorful seasonal salads, are a popular lunch item.

Whatever you do, make sure to save room for one of Olson’s renowned desserts. The brownies are a chocolate lover’s dream, as is the chocolate cake with icewine ganache and the pain au chocolat. The lemon tart is worth another mention. It’s the perfect blend of sweet and tart that simply melts in your mouth. Other choice items include the mocha hazelnut cheesecake, lemon cheesecake mousse tart and chocolate almond toffee bar.

But food is not the only attraction here. Next door to the restaurant is the Woodruff House, a heritage home dating back to 1802, considered to be among the 50 most architecturally significant houses in Canada. In many ways, the house is like Olson’s cooking; it looks good at first glance, but it’s only when you discover the details that it truly comes alive.

If these walls could talk, they would have a lot to say, an epic story complete with tragedy, unexpected twists and turns, and a Hollywood ending. It was first built as a log home in 1802 by David Secord, a military man who was a major player in the War of 1812.

Fire destroyed the house in 1814, leaving only the impressive stone and brick fireplace, which is still featured prominently today. In 1824, the now rebuilt house was bought by William Woodruff, who then completed a two-story addition with all the characteristics of authentic Loyalist Georgian architecture that makes the house so noteworthy today.

When the last Woodruff moved out in the 1890s, the house was then rented out and became known by locals as “the house of nations,” since so many newcomers used it as a temporary starting point for their new life in Canada. In 1970, the house was sold and completely dismantled, each beam and plank carefully numbered so the authentic period architecture would be preserved in its new location. Plans fell through, however, and despite twice changing hands, the Woodruff House remained in pieces, languishing in an old warehouse.

Now for the happy ending. Blair and Norma Jane Harber, who have family ties to the house and land, were determined to find a building to complement the new winery they had established.

Their quest finally led them to Port Hope, a small town 150 miles away, where they found the house in bits, looking forlorn and forgotten. The Woodruff House, having survived fire, neglect, dismantling and numerous moves, has now returned home and after a lot of TLC, stands proudly, very close to its original location.

The historic house is now the hospitality center of Ravine Vineyard, a burgeoning winery that has already made a name for itself for its high-quality organic wines.

So, whether you’re a foodie, a wine enthusiast, a history buff or all three, a visit to St. Davids is sure to please.

If you go:

Take Lewiston-Queenston Bridge to Niagara Parkway. Head north and turn left (west of Queenston) on York Road. St. Davids is located just past intersection with Creek Road.

Ravine Vineyard/Olson Foods, 1366 York Road, St. Davids, Ont.;

www.ravinevineyard.com

; (905) 262-8463. The winery is open Wednesday to Sunday, 11 a. m. to 5 p. m. Olsen Foods is open the same days, 10 a. m. to 5 p. m.

Click here to comment on this story or to see what other readers have to say.

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